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Thank you, Phillip! I appreciate your tips on using the planer for all four sides but in the logical sequence you provide. Using the planer to square the edges makes perfect sense for accuracy. Moreover, your quality products (love the Craftsman foyer table) adds credibility and integrity to your teaching.

I just saw Diy Home and Garden Project's video referencing the Morley Mortiser as being the inspiration for his own build and hence learned who you are. Your two "Let's Talk..." videos are super informative and a fantastic jumping off point for a burgeoning woodworker/box maker who until now thought a "fine" box needed to comprise more precious hardwoods as primary construction members. I'm pretty inspired to get to designing my boxes from a completely new vantage of using bookmatched veneer cladded plywood as the skeleton and separating the upper and lower halves with hardwood strips at the get, then later cutting the lid apart from the body. This is a new concept to me. Having been into papercrafts since childhood beginning with origami and kirigami, I've built tons of boxes and cabinets using cardstock but it's always been an additive process, involving gluing multiple layers upon whatever base I've built. Such a wonder it must be, each time after cutting through that strip! It's like breaking open an easter egg when we were kids. An extra shot of dopamine released prior to the box's completion can help get your project to the finish line more quickly. It's genius really. We always talk about how the importance in life lies more in the journey; how we got there matters more than that we got there. For me, woodworking embodies this ethos so thoroughly. Each step in creating a piece, even in a simple shopmade jig, is so satisfying. Many thanks for sharing your know-how with us. I look forward to learning more from your channel.

I know this is old. I got the "plans" for this jig from a Fine Woodworking article. It doesn't show the top width measurements. I'm assuming something like 12 inches. Does anyone know if that would work? I hope someone sees this. Lol.

There may not be a "right way" to mill lumber, but I know from bitter experience the are numerous wrong ways! Thanks for sharing your expertise.

I used your idea on a Stickley rocking chair for the Mrs. Fantastic idea sir! Thanks

cool-thx

Very nice. You provided a lot of good ideas for the construction process.

turning this into a 10 step quiz brings pain to the mental state of a child

Are the plans still available, link in description no longer works....

can you or someone explain what setting up the table saw 64th heavy. Trying to understanf what the "heavy"part means. excellent video

This guy is awesome. Learned a ton.

Great video. Thanks for sharing.

So the size of the template determines the final size of the piece?

I just use a trim tool that cuts both sides at the same time. Cost about $20 but quicker and safer than this method

Excellent

Is it over kill to cut a veneer then take your stock to the planer to get a clean reference and go back to the bandsaw? Unnecessary?

To cut straighter, try this: adjust the table ruler so it is exactly aligned with the t-track. Then saw a few inches into a straight piece of wood using the ruler. Now stop and look at the backside (without teeth) of the bandsaw blade. Is one side closer to wood then the other? If so, loosen the bolts that hold the table and turn it a little away from the side that touches wood. Make another test cut after tighening some of the bolts. If there is exactly the same space between the back of the sawblade and the wood on both sides you are good to go. After I did this, my cheap small bandsaw produces straight stripes half a millimeter thick. At least as long as I don't try sawing something thicker than an inch or so.

great video, what size (lenght) are your linear rails thank you

That ending... classic!

Just came across this video having watched 10+ others and finally someone who explains why the h.... I was getting a bow in my boards! Outfeed table just slightly too high! Thank you!!!

the link for the plans doesn't work any longer.

Hey Philip. I've been a fan of your Instagram stuff for a while and had no idea you had a RUclips channel. Looking forward to checking out more of your content!

No. You must use red tape.

Hey Philip, great series (now watching for the 2nd time), about to build having got your plans a while ago. I’m struggling to work out why the auxiliary fence is required on the router table to create the rounded profile of the tenons. I’m thinking with a router lift where you can set the height surely the auxiliary fence isn’t necessary. Perhaps I’m not getting what the fence is doing here Thx

How much are they? Do you sell items like these? Please post purchasing info. Thanks well done.

it's a very good jig just a question when the top rail of the door is longer than the height of the jig you need to use another jig to work horizontally?

It seems your design may have been hijacked by a few other ‘tubers…. Cudo’s for your innovation!

By far the best video I have ever watched on milling. Thank you, sir! 🙌

Remarkable. Thank you for sharing.

This makes more sense! Thanks Philip

Good video, annoying music.

You didn’t show the use of the jig! Instruction/illustration incomplete.

Liked-Subscribed-Notified. I had no idea that Texans had a British accent these days

I had started a search to find a tenoning jig to add to my crosscut sled and came across this. I like this method. It eliminates the process of having to size the tenon to the mortise.

What are the edge corner pieces called and where would I get them?

Wow thank you

I’ve never been able to eliminate snipe from my thickness planer when running longer boards.

Straight to the point

Thanks! Like the double use type clamp! Saves shop space. LOL!

very good thanks

Hey Phillip, been getting some remember to, ideas from your videos. Wish I'd seen this two days ago. LOL! I do the triangles but the bigger triangle ......gonna use that. Finger cup. LOL! another .."next time." Came to a similar conclusion after using Titebond II ( supose to have longer working time? ) Also ..removing glue at early stages saves a lot of work. Thanks!

Question....when you glue up your panel, how do you flatten the added piece of hardwood? Hand plane? Drum sander? Other?

Helps me to see a different appoach to box building and bennifit from your different experience. Thanks!

nice

Murphy has taught you well. LOL! An oh dah moment re flipping the resaw piece. Thanks.

that's one hell of an accent you have there Philip! Where did you develop that? Love your work BTW

Nice video. What degree taper do you like to use on those and what are the dimensions of the wood before you taper it? Looks like you design them to be wedged and flush cut. Are the tops of the legs visible on the final piece? If not, how do you hide them?

A couple thousandths? I thought it was a cunt hair?